Kiin Kiin

Before visiting Noma we had one other high level restaurant experience in Copenhagen, and this one actually managed to exceed my expectations. Just north of the centre of town, Kiin Kiin offers Michelin-starred Thai food, which was a first for me. In fact although I anticipated an enjoyable meal I made the mistake of leaving my camera at home, and our table in the basement was too dim for my iPhone, so I had to rely on my wife’s, which has a flash.

Like Noma they offer one fixed menu of a large number of small dishes so as to best show off their range and skill, which is considerable. We started with a trio of nibbles: at top right fried lotus root with sugar and lime, top left meringue with cashew and foreground prawn cracker with tomato and chili sauce. All three were beautiful and very moreish. A great start.

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A small crunchy cone containing miang kham, which is Thai for “small bite containing many things”. I wished for many bites.

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Hard to see in this photo, but the spoon has a tiny piece of white fish on it, and the two large blobs are balls of seeded prawn bread.

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Chicken skin, apple and satay. Can’t go wrong with satay in my book.

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Steamed bonito flan with miso and a crunchy garlic disc.

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Soyglazed ribs wrapped with tuna.

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Same again, but with meat. Tiny, tiny nuggets of meat.

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This dish came covered in a cloudy bell jar. The smoke inside was supposed to evoke the smells of street food. Once the smoke had cleared we were left with two small Chiang Mai  sausages made of chicken and duck.

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An amazingly sour, peppery and salty soup with chili, ginger and fish broth. In the little bowl next to it, langoustine, galanga foam and iced coriander. Very strong flavours, but all the better for it.

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This was, somewhat jokingly I think, presented as “pad thai without the noodles”.
Scallops and shrimp, pumpkin and carrot, tamarind sauce with green mango. Like the preceding soup the tamarind sauce was pretty powerful, and although I was initially unconvinced by the pumpkin puree, it did come in handy for cooling down the heat from the sauce.

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This was easily my favourite dish of the night. Marinated cod with beetroot, and on the right frozen green curry.

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Duck with puffed rice, mint and spicy yam. One of the spicier dishes that evening.

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Frozen coconut milk, galanga, chicken skin, mushroom.

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Egg, garlic cream, mushroom, basil.

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Veal and braised beef with cucumber and pineapple.

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Before dessert we were given a sugar cane stick to suck as a palate cleanser.

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Passion fruit, orange and kumquats.

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That’s how the dessert looked as we ate it, but when it arrived it looked more like candyfloss, and it dissolved as the waiter poured syrup over it:

And the final dessert: banana cake with roasted coconut and salted ice cream.

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By this stage we were pleasantly stuffed, and although a mouth-watering array of petits fours were on offer with the coffee we couldn’t really face any more, so we stopped there. But we had no regrets. This is easily the best Thai meal we’d had outside of Thailand, and perhaps even better than some of those. If we ever end up back in Copenhagen we’ll be making a return trip, no doubt.